![]() ![]() Once you figure out the tool, you can use a straight or curved to make square stock round or round stock square. More importantly, almost all of the drawknives shown in old tool catalogs had curved edges. I'm not sure I've ever seen an old drawknife with a straight edge other than in a cobblers kit (a very similar tool had some application in making and fitting lasts). If we stand the drawknife on edge on our flat surface, the blade may touch all along the edge but more likely, the edge will sit on the flat surface like the rocker on a rocking chair, and would rock in the same manner. But I abused the poor thing, trying to work fast.) (After a summer peeling cabin poles, one of my knives acquired about 3/8" arc over 16". In some uses, the blade will take on some curvature like this, but not much. ![]() If there is much curvature of the blade here (so the back is not flat), it is more of a scorp than a drawknife scorps are used for hollowing. If we take a drawknife and lay the back of the blade on a flat surface, the back will normally make (or be close to) contact with the flat surface. The other side of the blade has no bevel-call this the "back". A drawknife is beveled on only one side-call this side the "bevel". I guess I'm not understanding why you'd need a curved drawknife to work round surfaces-I'm not sure to which direction of curvature you are referring?
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